For the little dress I decided on French seams. When sewing by hand French seams have several advantages. First, I never have to sew through more then two layers. Second, the seam allowances are controlled without making tedious whip stitches. So here's the process.
First, I sewed a seam with the wrong sides of the fabric held together. That's right. Unlike most seams, this starts with the wrong sides held together. Since the pattern includes 3/8 inch seams allowances, I sewed a 1/8 inch seam.
I then turned the dress inside out and pressed the seam open.
Next, I folded the work on the seam line with right sides together. The seam allowances are sandwiched in between now.
Finally, I sewed a 1/4 inch seam, encasing the seam allowances.
I used two different stitches when sewing the seams. Since the first seam is not the primary seam, I used a simple running stitch. For the second seam I could have used a backstitch, but my running stitch is quite strong, so I compromised. I took three running stitches on my needle at a time and alternated with a backstitch to reinforce the seam. This is a technique that quilters often use.
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